Archive for April, 2008

Cross posted at http://blogs.sun.com/syw

HuangPu River carved the lovely Bund, the prime financial real estate since China leased this area to Britain in 1870s. It slices the city into halves.

ShangHai City started from the west side (PuXi) and expanded east, toward the sea. The river exacted a distance tax to PuDong, or the east of HuangPu river. It accepted to be the lesser part of ShangHai.

No more. Its rural land provided growth space for high-tech industries. The adjacency to the new airport and sea ports makes it a better choice of trade, light manufacturing, and the steel industry. PuDong is now rich, modern, and vibrant. PuXi, however, remains charming, classic, and the choice location for the best restaurants.

The necessity of crossing the river is a daily nightmare. Subway network is not yet mature. Tunnels are frustrating. Bridges are inconvenient detours. Then, I found the lovely alternative: the ferry. I like ferries.

There are two commuter ferry lines (and many tourist ones). The shorter one costs 0.50 RMB and the longer one 2. A short wait beacons the boat and begins the leisure crossing. I soaked in busy river activities and understood the role this river plays to the prosperity of this biggest city of China.

Then the taxi thrusted me back to the mega-city’s arteries.


同步上网于http://blogs.sun.com/syw_zh

黄埔江,一弯刻出了个悠悠的外滩。从1870年代英租界时,就是金融中心了。但这江,也把上海一分为二:浦东,浦西。

老上海市在浦西。因为要过河,浦东总是低了一等。但今非昔比,浦东有地,离新机场及港口近,对高新业,加工业,钢铁业,都有大吸引力。今天,浦东又新,又大,又繁华。而浦西依旧迷人,古典,也有最多的好餐厅。

过江,就成了上海人天天头疼的大事。轨道还没盖好,隧道塞,桥又远。而我这次发现了轮渡,多遐意。我迷渡轮。

过河有两线,东昌路口直过5毛钱,去外滩2元。船娓娓漂来,吃力离岸,我眼看江上船来船去,明白了这水对上海的重要性。

一下船,出租车立马把我再注射进上海的动脉。

Across the Universe
Directed by Julie Taymor

Pub. Date: 2007

Cross posted at http://blogs.sun.com/syw

My iPods collects 128 Beatles songs.

They have cryptic lyrics, but mysteriously beautiful, bringing tears or smiles from the heart. You can’t talk when the music is still playing; and have long buried the moment in your heart when the song ended. When the movie scene starts, they all came back.

Maybe it is a clever musical strung together with Beatles? No, that’s possible only with ABBA. This is Julie Taymor’s interpretations. Nicely done.

She was giddy talking about Paul McCartney at the pre-screening. Oprah joined her like a teenage slumber party girl. “Wow,” I thought. “The power of Beatles.”


我的iPods里有128首批头四的歌.

这些歌的歌词晦涩但又特特迷人,常让人泪上心头或不由心暖一笑.歌放的时候不能讲,放完了就过了。于是那感觉就被深埋心中。电影中唱起来时,又被翻起。

可能编剧心巧的用批头四的歌穿成这音乐剧吗?我想不能,又不是ABBA。Julie Taymor的心血尽在此了。而且是一佳作。

Paul McCartney看预演时就挨着Julie Taymor坐。她说到那时可真是雀跃。Oprah居然也像小女孩到朋友家睡过夜一样的跳。
批头四,真魔力不减。

四月17早上九点25分,我抵达上海浦东机场国航柜台,准备拿11点往北京班机,CA985,的登机牌。柜台人员说那班机将会延误至少两小时,如果我愿意,可以搭早一班933,但是933九点半起飞,我得立刻决定。于是丢下行李,直奔登机口。慌乱过安检,跳上小巴,喘气坐在往飞机的路上,心头开始嘀咕,“我的行李怎办?”

北京三号航站的行李查询中心已经是一片战火了。女高音,男高音 (没有中低音的)。一群人围着几个服务人员,他们焦头烂额,电话放不下,顾客气急败坏,连骂带威胁。

我找了个女孩,平静的对她说,“对不起。能问个问题吗?”她极讶异。於是跟我问了几句,接着找了个头,明白了原委,写了张纸给我。

我回家,休息安顿,三小时后回到机场,出示那张纸给警卫,直奔行李查询中心。我的行李在那坐着等呢。正提起它,一人进来,破口大骂,“你们这什么国航,还想办奥运。我的行李呢?” 我一话不说,出机场。

Cross posted at http://blogs.sun.com/syw

“I insist,” said a friend. “How can you live in Beijing for almost 3 years without experiencing it.” She sounded just like myself when I said to Maggie a couple of years ago, “You grew up in Beijing and never visited the Forbidden City?” So I sheepishly follow them into this dimly lit massage parlor.

Foot massage, that is.

Many Chinese believe in reflexological therapy. The general theories associate vital organs and circulation to areas on one’s feet. By stimulating the corresponding areas, one will heal or strengthen the associative organs. You can also diagnose by observing how areas of your feet react to massage actions.

The place is subtly decorated with staff quietly busying around. We were led to a room lined wtih easy chairs and foot stools. Soon, a waiter came in to confirm our services and take orders for drinks and foods (all complimentary). A few minutes after, 4 masseurs came in each with a wooden bucket of hot liquid. Flower petals float on the slightly colored water. It was scorching hot, yet soothing to soak your feet in. The masseurs then start work on our shoulders and backs. Knots that I did not know exist disappeared and tension from neck loosens. Just when I noticed the water is getting cold, the masseur took my feet out, wrap them with warm damp towels, and took out the bucket.

They came back and start working on my feet. With lubricant, she pressed, rub, pinched, or rolled pretty much every parts. It hurt a bit, but not too much. Some parts generate unfamilar sensations that are part itchy, part a bit pain, and part soothing. It was the “good hurt.” I found myself getting drowsy and becoming quiet.

Too soon, they stopped and bid us farewell. We stayed to finish our drink and chat. As the conversation ends, we put our shoes back on (I don’t want to) and left, very refreshed.

Hmm, I can get used to this…


“真没想到,”一个朋友十分诧异地问我,“你在北京住三年了竟然都没试过?”她的神情跟我两年前问 Maggie 时候的一模一样:“你从小在北京长大竟然没去过故宫?”于是我屁颠屁颠地跟着他们来到这个灯光昏暗的按摩店。

对了,我说的就是足底按摩。

中国人比较相信反射疗法。也就是说人的主要脏器、循环系统和脚底是有联系的。刺激脚底的相应区域,能够治疗相应器官的疾病或改善他们的功能。按摩这些区域,观察脚的反应,还能够诊断相应器官的健康状况。

这家按摩店装修别致,工作人员都在默默地忙碌着。我们被领到一个房间里,里面排着舒服的椅子和脚凳。很快,一个服务员进来确认服务种类,并让我们点饮料和吃的(都是含在服务里的)。不一会,四位按摩师进来了,每人端着一只木桶,桶里装满热气腾腾、颜色微深的汤水,上面漂浮着花瓣。水非常烫,但可以慢慢试着把脚放进去,很舒服。按摩师开始按摩肩膀和后背。她的按摩化解了我以前或许没注意到的结节,也舒缓了颈部的紧张。当水刚刚开始变凉的时候,按摩师把我的脚拿了出来,用湿的热毛巾裹好。

然后开始按摩脚。她用一点润滑油,开始对脚的每个部位压、搓、捏、揉。有一点疼,但还好。有的部位会有一种不熟悉的感觉 - 有点痒,又有点疼痛,但又有点舒服。真是”痛并快乐着” 。我发现自己慢慢开始昏昏欲睡,安静了下来。

很快她们按摩完了,送客。我们又待了一会,一边聊天,一边喝完饮料。聊完天,穿上鞋子(还真有点不愿意),感觉非常清爽。

别说,我可能会上瘾呢…

扬州麻花

April 15th, 2008 No Comments

走在扬州的广陵路上,一群人排大队。瞅一下呗。哟。麦麻花。唉。麻花有这么至於吗?当然,天下只要是吃的,都能是大事。更好玩,就隔壁挨着,也卖麻花。但别提排队了,一个顾客都没。既然给我碰到了,爷就排一下,领教领教吧。

“小家平麻花”一斤8元,40根。驰名扬州地面。他家麻花酥而不油,久而不蚝。但问起秘诀,王家平说仅在和面功夫罢了。每天下午1:30开张,做到6点左右面用完了休息,基本上永远有十个人以上在排队。

我看了看,一人收钱,一人油炸,5人揉麻花,1人分面。15分钟炸一锅,10斤上下。一天180斤,收入1440元,每月约4万多。店面看来是祖产,员工都是非技术人员,每天工作半天,千把元就够了。材料就是面粉,油,燃料,及塑料袋子,看来不会到四分之一的成本。也就是说每月有两万五的税前收入。一年是三十万以上啊。卖麻花,这也是了不得的成就了。

我们买了三斤带回北京。两天就被瓜分一净。

扬州迎宾馆

April 12th, 2008 No Comments

我在大众网上的点评。

为什么没有网站呢?

这宾馆有许多楼。我住八号,最新也最大。

7点到,饿了,但不想吃排挡。门房说隔壁有个好餐厅,转了半天扬州的“迷园”,走到那“趣园”,不收散客。回到迎宾馆,溜到一个楼,被挡住,里面有首长,不准进。再走到三号楼,对不住,没桌子了。好吧,回八号楼吃排挡。叹气。

房间倒是一流。吵了点,但是走廊客人的修养,怪不得酒店。

退房时大门警卫说出租车不进来,让客人自己去外面叫呗。前台气结,派人推我们的行里走10分钟去大门。一拦手就是部车。分明就是懒警卫。

到车站发现一个包掉在楼里。打电话才发现收据上的电话是错的。找半天终于搭通了电话,他们包倒是收起来了。要我回去取。但我来不及了,这下他们傻了。我愿意付收到付费的快递,但迎宾馆不知如何操作,要我寄100元,他们收到后再寄。气得我哭笑不得。爷才结了几千元的房帐,你们转脸连100元都不能先垫?交涉再三,终于学会了对方付费,东西寄到,运费20。再叹气。

靠硬件是不能会让迎宾馆进五星的。

Golden Compass

April 11th, 2008 1 Comment

His Dark Materials Trilogy (The Golden Compass; The Subtle Knife; The Amber Spyglass)
Philip Pullman

ISBN: 978-0440238607
Pub. Date: September 23, 2003
Publisher: Laurel Leaf
The Golden Compass
Nicole Kidman, Daniel Craig, Dakota Blue Richards


Director: Chris Weitz

Cross posted at http://blogs.sun.com/syw

Excellent books, disappointing movie. But is it possible to produce a good movie of such a richly written book? There has been two attempts to cinematize Dune; both failed too.

What an interesting concept that everyone has three parts: body, soul, and spirit. These three parts can exist independently — body can live on without spirit, soul goes to hell/heaven after body dies. Pullman made the spirit exist in the form of an animal that has to stay close to the body. When the tie between the body and spirit gets severed, two things happen: a great amount of energy releases and the person either dies or becomes very dull.

Lyra, the main character, reads the Golden Compass, an oracular instrument. That skill comes from the rare ability to intensively focused on emptiness. With that, and Golden Compass as the channel, Lyra communicate with Dust, a substance both generated by and stimulates human intellects. Human becomes more creative when exposed to Dust; the creativity also generates Dust. Apparently, multiple cultures discovered the same and created their own version of the instrument. Chinese’s I-Ching is one of them. Astrology, Tarot cards, crystal ball, and other fortune telling skills are all the same thing.

The movie ends up with incoherent fragments and under-developed characters. Nicole Kidman, however, almost perfected the role. I cannot think of a better actor for Mrs. Coulter. But maybe it is not fair to criticize the movie as a book reader. Only Lord of the Rings, after all, met my expectation as a successful adaptation. I watch Harry Potter movies mainly just to reminisce: like a quick re-read and recollection of the details.



同步上网于http://blogs.sun.com/syw_zh

书很好看,电影却令人失望。然而真的有可能把内容如此丰富的小说拍成一部好电影吗?有过两次拍《沙堆》,两次都败的不堪。

书中有合很有趣的概念:每个人都有肉体、灵魂和精灵三部分。各别可以独立存在--肉体失去精灵可以继续存活,灵魂则在肉体死亡后去往地狱或天堂。在小说中精灵成动物型像,而必须常伴肉体左右。一旦肉体与精灵被强行分离,打破后释出巨大的能量,使得失去精灵的人,变为行尸走肉,甚至死去。

主角莱拉可以虚空而不忘我。这罕见的天分让她读的懂黄金罗盘。由此她能感知未知世界。通过这种能力,并藉由黄金罗盘,莱拉能够与星尘沟通。星尘既激发人类智慧,也是创造力的副产品。人类一旦触及到星尘,就会变得更加富有创造性,而创造的过程又会再次产生星尘。实际上,各文明都意识到星尘预言能力。中国的《易经》便是预言工具其中之一。星座解析、塔罗牌、水晶球,以及各种预言技巧都属于这一类事物。

影片交待不清情节,人物也不深入刻画。无论如何,妮可·基德曼的表演还是堪称完美,我想不出还有谁能把科尔特夫人演绎得更加出色。或许从小说读者的立场评论影片有失公允。想来,只有《指环王》系列电影满意。《哈利·波特》的电影只是来追忆故事情节罢了。

L. Ling-chi Wang wrote a nice commentary on CNN.

I thought of all the US bashing around the world. All major state events have met protesters. People carry banners and sighs and try to disrupt whatever the organizers try to do. Very few people pay much attention to those activities. “Yeah, another protesting group. Moving on please.” It seems to me influential power is a double-edge sword; the ability to move and shake the world will also bring on controversies.

China should be glad to receive those protests: a clear sigh that it has joined the elite club of world shapers.

Daughter and her friend visited Beijing on spring break. She lived here for the last two of her high school year. Her friend never set foot in China what-so-ever. They planned a full agenda: sight seeing, restaurants she missed, friends to reminisce, surprise birthday party (she is the surprise), etc.

I was just getting used to this serene, orderly, tidy empty-nester life. Their arrival mercilessly transformed it with semi-chaotic whirl-wind of activities catered to the whims of young college kids. It was very nice to see my kid; also nice to feel the calmness crawling back after they have left.

Day 1 Arrival. She almost gave her birthday friend a heart-attack jumping out of a box as a surprise. Dinner at A-Che, a Carribean restaurant on DongZhiMenWai (东直门外).
Day 2 Morning to the Forbidden City (故宫). Drove by the almost finished CCTV tower and marveled at the design. Mother met them near the north gate and brought them to a hot-pot lunch. After Temple of Heaven (天坛), they came to the office to pick me up back home. We swang by Olympic venues: Water Cube and Bird’s Nest. DingTaiFeng (鼎泰丰) dinner with a friend.
Day 3 Great Wall at JuYongGuan (居庸关). Toured Commune under the Great Wall (长城脚下的公社), an ultra-modern hotel designed as a commune of individual houses. They skipped lunch and came home for dinner.
Day 4 I tour-guided them at Summer Palace (颐和园) and DongYue Temple (东岳庙). There is an hour or so before the dinner when we came back, so I dropped them off at YaShow (雅秀) for some touristic shopping. Lunch as JiaoZi (天津百饺园) restaurant. Peking Duck (大董) for dinner.
Day 5 They went hiking at Fragrance Hill (香山). At around noon, they went to XiDan (西单) directly for shopping. McDonald for lunch. Belagio (鹿港小镇) with a friend.
Day 6 WangFuJing, hair-cut, birthday party followed by KTV.
Day 7 PanJiaYuan (潘家园) then Beijing Planning Exhibit Hall (北京规划展揽馆). Lunch at KongYiJi (孔乙己). Dinner at Very Siam (非常泰).
Day 8 Leave home at 9am, depart from new Terminal 3.

 

I am quite impressed. They packed lots of activities into a week. I was almost tempted to send them to Xi’An for a day trip, the real cost for that is 2 dinners slots. For these kids, that will be impossible to make up from their social calendar.

百萬人下揚州.遊人如織.

自隋煬帝開運河,揚州便是中國第一富都.直到近代才被上海,香港取代.

遊瘦西湖,要想自己是乾隆.身為天子,來到這萬家富豪之都.你要知道他們能貢獻多少進國庫.他們要政府穩定,保住他們的財源.乾隆二下江南,必到揚州.每次來,瘦西湖就更美,更豪華一倍.鹽商們大量投入,希望政府繼續支持,政策繼續友好.最好再搞個官做做,就太美好了.百萬白銀不算什麼,報酬率可高的呢.五亭橋,釣魚台都不是園林,而是奉上.乾隆一高興,一切都搞定.

在這金銀奢華中,是二十四橋的無奈.”十年一覺揚州夢”的下一句是”贏得青樓薄倖名”.杜牧的詩,說的是在揚州燈紅酒綠的腐敗.鄭板橋說”千家養女先教曲,十里栽花算種田”.養女兒比種地還好.我想是揚州自然出美女,還是美女來揚州留下了她們的基因?

如果繁華的一個副產品是美女,另一個就是藝術了.明清兩代,文人如果宦場不得志,有點才氣,來揚州是自然之事.園林藝術也就同時發揚起來了.揚州成的當代的文藝重鎮,流傳至今.揚州八怪,揚派園林,家具,印刷出版等,都是當代首選.

但商業繁華的動力是錢.除了瘦西湖,別地方都能與揚州一較上下.百年後,揚州退出了商業舞台,也退讓了文化中心的地位.守著祖業,揚州人只好閒閒的過”早上皮包水,下午水包皮”的日子.那其實是無奈啊.能打拼賺錢時,那有這麼閒的.

揚州迎賓館,說的是招待國賓的地方.原來這賓館,分幾個樓,各有特色.住進了八號樓,晚七點進了房間,出來溜溜,居然連吃兩個閉門羹.第一個樓有首長在,不待客.第二個沒位子了.再溜到隔壁的個”趣園”,他家只有包間,沒散客,”對不起,您請回吧”.摸摸鼻子,爺回八號樓吃大排檔唄.

第二天買了揚州主景點的聯票:瘦西湖,何園,个園,運河遊.一趟拼完.中午找到巷子級深處的百年老店”富春茶社”.晚上吃吃揚州新貴餐廳”玉玲瓏”.腳酸腿疲,回房洗淨大睡到天明.

第三天先奔”揚州雙博”(兩個博物館在一起),逛到近中午,打車到大明寺.其實是名僧鑒真駐地.香火鼎盛.旁邊是歐陽修的平山堂,也能留連一番.這時餓了,直奔冶春茶社.吃飽喝足,再殺史可法紀念堂,八怪紀念館.逛完已身疲力盡,找了個店呆坐著.回過神來,拎著行李,去揚州車站,上了Z-30號火車直回北京.