The art is in chopsticking. Pick it up gently and slowly. the friction of chopsticks will do the works; you need to provide the patience. The dumpling will sag like a small water balloon and you will crane it to the vinegar saucer for a light dip, don’t put it down, hoist it to the spoon gently down. You are half-way there. Now pick up several ginger threads that should have been soaking in the vinegar nicely and place them on top of the dumpling. Raise the spoon up to your mouth and bite just a small opening carefully. The steam rushes to your nostrils and you pour the hot juice into your mouth and savor for a while. Then, throw the whole thing into your mouth and enjoy the mixture of dumpling shell, the subtly flavorful filling, and the nice play with the vinegar and ginger. Repeat this process as fast as you can, since they are so good when hot.
I have been a fan of Din Tai Feng for over 35 years by now. Its original restaurant in Taipei started as a literally hole-in-the-wall (still is) dumpling maker amongst hundreds of them in that city. Over the decades, it has become an international sensation. When I moved to Beijing in 2005, I was delighted to find its new branch not 10-minute’s walk away. The family soon was conversing with the serving staff on first-name basis.
You must order the XiaoLongBao å°é¾åŒ… dumpling. I recommend the traditional (not soupy) one. have known the menu by heart and can usually order without referring to it. My favorites are their noodle and fried rice. Their sesame filled bao èŠéº»å¤§åŒ… is of course must-order whenever.
First-timers usually don’t quite understand Din Tai Feng. It does not appear to warrant the wait and the price. That’s OK. The power of Din Tai Feng is in its universal appeal and subtlety. No one dish would stand out after the meal. After a while, there will be a craving gradually brewed. Then one day, you found yourself waiting patiently at the door and would stubbornly not consider any other alternatives.
Yes, I finally succumbed and came to its newest Bellevue restaurant. Yes, I walked away satisfied. I am good, for several weeks at least.
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